The kindness of strangers

As we walked along the seemingly endless open sandy roads, we could see the shadow of a solitary cloud on the road in front and prayed it would give us a few minutes shade and relief from scorching midday sun, but it passed across ahead of us, teasing us before we managed to reach it. … Read more »


Alter do Chão and the road ahead

The warm, crystal-clear, salt-free waters of the Tapajos river here in Amazonas combined with a natural sand bar and almost white sand makes for the perfect beach. Even though I’m on an expedition, the temptation to visit this place I’d never previously heard about was too much after I was seduced by stories about the … Read more »


Scrambled heads in Santarém

I’m currently in the large jungle city of Santarém. Antonio, my recent guide, returns home today to Almeirim. His young wife is expecting the imminent arrival of their second child. It was a good experience walking with him, he was keen to learn some English and I picked up a few more Portuguese words. He … Read more »


Walking dangerous – Andando perigoso

As the great celestial machine majestically rotated us toward the life-giving sun, just a few degrees away from the equator, the cool early morning air soon turned into a blazing hot tropical sunrise. Luckily we only had to walk in the sun for about three hours, as we were about to enter the jungle for the … Read more »


Swimming the Amazon & Joining the dots

After scratching my head for ideas and looking at all possible options, I’ve decided to continue walking from Almeirim on the North side of the Amazon river for now because it truly is impossible to cross the land or Islands on foot between Porto de Moz and Almeirim at the present time. I spent 4 … Read more »


Xingu “The great water”

I have now arrived at the mouth of the giant Rio Xingu, one of the longest tributaries that runs into the Rio Amazonas. It’s also controversial because of the Belo Monte dam project that is currently under construction further up the river. It’s going to create a huge supply of hydroelectricity for Brazil but it will … Read more »


Snakes and ladders

Snakes and ladders was a board game I loved playing when I was a kid, but I never dreamed I would one day be playing it for real in the Amazon rainforest in South America. Well, at times that’s what it feels like – I make good progress in the direction I want to go, … Read more »


Caxiuanã National Forest

I’m trying my best to minimise the risks to myself and my guide. I’m making decisions every day to calculate the best route, at the same time considering the risks and escape options should anything go wrong. But a times, we just have to rely on good luck or God! to make any progress. My … Read more »


Searching for terra firma

“You’ll have to wait until July”, my guide shouted, “because the waters will be gone and we can traverse the land better” I thought of possible options, including returning to the UK to work 7 days a week to replenish money for 3 months, skipping this section of the trek and continuing from Porta de … Read more »


Pororoca

It’s the height of rainy season here and by the time you read this we will have started the long crossing to Porto De Moz, via Melgaco. I have had to change the route several times due to seasonal flooding. It’s not going to be easy – what with the spring tides, peak rainy season … Read more »