Latest Post: Ocean Of Dreams

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org     “An end is only a beginning in disguise” ~Lounsbourgh   Well here it is, the last blog of the expedition – of my Amazon odyssey. I have reached the Pacific, a destination that at times during my trek I wasn’t sure I would ever see. I dreamed about this … Read more »

Summit To Sea

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org     Music “Doina de La Visna” by Gheorghe Zamifir. Available  here.    This will be the last blog before I hit the Pacific Ocean, hopefully just a few days from now. Landscapes A very eventful last few weeks since I climbed Mismi and left Chivay, and all the details … Read more »


The Source Of The Amazon

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org     The summit  After crossing the winding, treeless, cold and barren valley from the small mining town of Caylloma, and staying a few days with the hardy local inhabitants, one of whom walked with me for a few hours, I followed the last part of the Apurimac river … Read more »


Tree Of Rivers

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org I borrowed my title from John Hemming’s wonderful, definitive book Tree of Rivers. If you look at the diagram of the Amazon Basin below, it is not difficult to distinguish his “tree” of rivers that appears to grow west from the Atlantic. The tree trunk is the main Amazon River, and the … Read more »


Papas, Alpacas, War and Peace

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org As the famous writer and author of War And Peace, Leo Tolstoy, once wrote “The two most powerful warriors are patience and time.” It has become something of a mantra for me, after losing many weeks walking due to getting sick in Cusco with Covid. After being ill, I really struggled physically, … Read more »


Heart Of The Inca Universe

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org Cusco was the physical, political, and spiritual center of the Inka universe. Every aspect of the city reflected its cosmic significance. The Quechua word “Qosqo”, comes from an indigenous word meaning “navel of the world” or “center of the universe”. The historic city, with its mind-boggling Inca engineering, sits 3400m above … Read more »


Pachamama “Mother Earth”

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org The word Pachamama translates to Mother Earth from the ancient Quechua language – pacha meaning universe, world, or earth, and mama meaning mother. In the many mountain villages I passed or stayed at, the people who live there spend most of their days working the land by hand in the various … Read more »


El Cóndor Pasa ~The Condor Passes.

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   The life and soul – the heart – of the local Peruvian towns seems to be recovering now, post-Covid. Having spent some time in the surprisingly pleasant and picturesque Pichari, I’ve seen a definite surge of socializing. Every night of the week the streets and central plazas are … Read more »


Apurimac “God Speaks”

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   “The cave you fear to enter holds the treasure you seek.” — Joseph Campbell.   I can honestly say that I was fearful of entering this section of the expedition – especially the lower Rio Ene. I had been warned many many times not to walk along the riverbank, … Read more »


River Deep Mountain High

­Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org     Verano (Summer) It’s summer here now (verano), and dry season. I haven’t seen rain for at least three weeks. The night skies have been crystal clear as have the small streams and rivers flowing down from the mountains. At some of the Ashaninka villages that we stayed at … Read more »