El Cóndor Pasa ~The Condor Passes.

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   The life and soul – the heart – of the local Peruvian towns seems to be recovering now, post-Covid. Having spent some time in the surprisingly pleasant and picturesque Pichari, I’ve seen a definite surge of socializing. Every night of the week the streets and central plazas are … Read more »


Apurimac “God Speaks”

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   “The cave you fear to enter holds the treasure you seek.” — Joseph Campbell.   I can honestly say that I was fearful of entering this section of the expedition – especially the lower Rio Ene. I had been warned many many times not to walk along the riverbank, … Read more »


Jungle all the way

Apologies for the big gap since my last blog. All the goings-on over the last few months are far too numerous to mention in detail, but here`s a quick overview to give you some idea. The main task was to complete the final leg of the Brazilian Amazon from the large Ticuna community of Feijoal, … Read more »


The Law of the Jungle

After staying two nights at a unique community called Jerusalem, that sits atop a rare hill with wonderful views across the forest canopy and a large lake, and then several days later stumbling across the tiny village Nova Informa do Uruá, we were now supposedly heading for an island community named Tupi, near the Solimoes river. It was … Read more »


Rivers in the Sky

After two unsuccessful starts with different Ticuna guides, I was looking for a third-time-lucky break. I was resigned this time to doing a solo crossing, after having had to turn back twice, the second time being much more of a challenge. It had taken two days and a looong river paddle to get back to … Read more »


Order and Progress

We must have looked a sight as we stumbled out of the jungle with our huge packs, our torn and filthy clothes hanging loosely from our emaciated forms. Everyone stared at us as we walked through the city in the afternoon heat to find accommodation, and it was no surprise to me when the police … Read more »


Bridge Over Troubled Waters

By the time you read this blog we should be on our way to Rio Jutaí – the last of the major tributaries of the Brazilian Amazon basin. Before we left Juruá, I sent photos for this blog to Clive Maguire in Manaus. I then managed to write some of the blog via a batch … Read more »


The Emerald City

After leaving Tefe (the city where the famous naturalist Henry Walter Bates based himself for several years) and following an exhausting 7.5K swim across Lago Tefé, my current guide Everaldo and I set off for the long slog to Juruá. Armed with Everaldo’s vast knowledge of the rainforest and my own very modest experience, we … Read more »


The lay of the land

It would have been much quicker walking along the exposed banks of the Solimões (Amazon) river, but the risk of encountering river pirates was very high –  so for this latest section, Coari to Tefé, we would just have to grit our teeth, sharpen our machetes, and cut our own path through the longer and … Read more »


Light at the end of the jungle

I was sitting in the little Igapo Açu Pousda alone, unable to find anyone who would walk with me, and thinking about attempting a solo crossing. I could see what looked like an indigenous guy sitting at the other side of the room. I went over and asked him if he was from a community … Read more »