Ocean Of Dreams

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org     “An end is only a beginning in disguise” ~Lounsbourgh   Well here it is, the last blog of the expedition – of my Amazon odyssey. I have reached the Pacific, a destination that at times during my trek I wasn’t sure I would ever see. I dreamed about this … Read more »


Summit To Sea

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org     Music “Doina de La Visna” by Gheorghe Zamifir. Available  here.    This will be the last blog before I hit the Pacific Ocean, hopefully just a few days from now. Landscapes A very eventful last few weeks since I climbed Mismi and left Chivay, and all the details … Read more »


The Source Of The Amazon

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org     The summit  After crossing the winding, treeless, cold and barren valley from the small mining town of Caylloma, and staying a few days with the hardy local inhabitants, one of whom walked with me for a few hours, I followed the last part of the Apurimac river … Read more »


Tree Of Rivers

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski  Canoandes.org I borrowed my title from John Hemming’s wonderful, definitive book Tree of Rivers. If you look at the diagram of the Amazon Basin below, it is not difficult to distinguish his “tree” of rivers that appears to grow west from the Atlantic. The tree trunk is the main Amazon River, and the … Read more »


Papas, Alpacas, War and Peace

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org As the famous writer and author of War And Peace, Leo Tolstoy, once wrote “The two most powerful warriors are patience and time.” It has become something of a mantra for me, after losing many weeks walking due to getting sick in Cusco with Covid. After being ill, I really struggled physically, … Read more »


Apurimac “God Speaks”

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   “The cave you fear to enter holds the treasure you seek.” — Joseph Campbell.   I can honestly say that I was fearful of entering this section of the expedition – especially the lower Rio Ene. I had been warned many many times not to walk along the riverbank, … Read more »


River Deep Mountain High

­Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org     Verano (Summer) It’s summer here now (verano), and dry season. I haven’t seen rain for at least three weeks. The night skies have been crystal clear as have the small streams and rivers flowing down from the mountains. At some of the Ashaninka villages that we stayed at … Read more »



The Green Ocean

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   Staying healthy on a tropical jungle expedition is vital. I’ve had all the inoculations (yellow fever, typhoid, rabies etc), but there are still diseases lurking for which there is no prevention other than awareness and luck –  e.g. malaria, dengue, leishmaniasis, and more. Over the course of this expedition … Read more »


Alas De Esperanza – Wings Of Hope

Blogs sponsored by Piotr Chmielinski Canoandes.org   First and foremost, I would like to say a big thank you to everyone who has donated via Paypal or to the Fundrazr campaign to keep the expedition going. I realise I probably couldn’t have chosen a worse time to beg for money, post-Christmas and in the grip of … Read more »