Drying Farina. Alto rio Tapiche, Peru

Learning new bushcraft skills. Alto Tapiche.

Walking in Pucallpa city

“If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water.” Loren Eiseley

Port of Contamana

Roof construction. Rio Tapiche, Peru.

Weaving palm-leaf roof tiles.

Arial view of low river levels, Rio Tapiche.

Tracking map to Pucallpa, Peru.

Tree of rivers. Amazon basin map

A timeless Jurassic landscape.

Wild cat at the farm. Alto Tapiche, Peru.

Arial view of the forested mountains near to Contamana, Peru

Drying farina, Alto Tapiche, Peru.

“In every landscape, the point of astonishment is the meeting of sky & earth.” – Emerson. Photo Rio Ucayali Peru

Near to Pucallpa Peru gigantic Palm oil plantation we had to walk around.

The farmhouse. A pano photo at 5.30 am, my favourite time of day on the small farm. The river is on the right.

Marielisa at the farm, originally from Iquitos. Alto Tapiche Loreto Peru

Making Farina at the farm. Alto Tapachi, Loreto Peru.

I called this unusual looking tree a pot-belly tree, Pizarro knew the name but i can’t remember.

A large chameleon on a sandbank looks out over the low river next to the farmhouse i stayed at. AltoTapiche

View or Ucayali river from Contamana Peru.

Many thanks to Pizarro for being great company and parting with his vast knowledge as we walked. Photo: Port of Contamana Peru

The first concrete bridge 10km from Pucallpa city

A Jurassic landscape

Pizarro & me arrive in Pucallpa city

Walking into Pucallpa city the Shibibo-Conibo infulence strong here

Pigs sleeping at the farmhouse

Children in the Kapanawa community Fati

A captive young Howler monkey becomes a pet after its mother was killed to feed a family.

A Parakeet feeds on freshly crushed yucca before its made into Farina.Alto Tapiche Loreto Peru

The aptly named Frontera one of only two pueblos all of whom are Kapanawa. Alto Tapiche, Peru

Water The Elixir of Life.

Children in the Kapanawa community harvesting plantain, an important part of their daily diet. Limon Cocha, Alto Tapachi, Loreto Peru.

Pela Yucca – Community members peeling yucca

Making Farina

Harvesting sugar cane

Children of the Kapanawa community Frontera These gentle people are hunter gatherers they are some of the last remaining indigenous people on the frontier of so called modern civilisation, thankfully they have managed to retain their original language.

Palm thatching for the roof

Roof construction. Alto Tapiche Peru

Working for my food

Jake recieving urgent treatment for snake bite. Fatima Alto rio Tapiche Peru

Kapanawa people washing clothes. Limon Cocha Alto Tapiche Loreto Peru

Kapanawa boy helping to clear area to plant Yucca

Pizarro (Hoapa his Kapanawa name)

Moon Mars & Jupiter rising? Zero light pollution & a clear night sky is perfect for stargazing. San Pedro Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru

Shot-guns replace blow-guns. Rio Tapiche Loreto to Peru.

Wall painting. Tapichi Loreto Peru

Me washing in a small river. In 3 months time this river will be several meters higher.

At one community we were given the use of an empty building to sleep in. Jorge brushing teeth before we set off again. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.

Jorge chats to Blas at community Galica as he builds a house for his son. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru

A typical kitchen set up. Community Galica Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.

Many boats arrive in the bigger towns to sell their harvest. Requena Loreto Peru

A family live in this house on the riverbank, not sure i could sleep well if it were my home. Requena Loreto Peru

We are all on a journey. The returning boat to Santa Elena. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.

Boy staying cool under the tropical sun in a rain filled canoe. Santa Elena rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.

Kinder end of term party in Santa Elena. The children break for three months here, returning to school in March. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.

River of life. Santa Elena Rio Tapiche. Loreto Peru

Clearing the reed/grass on the dried out riverbank to plant crops before the water rises again.Tapiche Loreto Peru

A festive photo! A stark contrast to the endless green. They remind me of red wax candles with a flame. Loreto Peru

Facing the terrain. Satellite image of a section of the zig zagging rio Tapiche.

Joining the aquatic residents of the Tapiche. One of several swims i had to do to continue walking on the other side.

Plaza Santa Elena. Rio Tapiche. Panorama

A big thank you to Jorge who bravely accompanied me the last few months. He returns to the work he loves, teaching mathermatics in the new year. Loreto Peru

Clearing land to grow yucca for community.

Walking on a dry riverbed. Loreto Peru

Swim done across Rio Ucayali

Wall paintings Nauta Peru.

Nauta to Requena Track points.

Thanks to maths teacher Jorge who bravely accompanied me on the traverse from nauta to Requena, he modestly said “you are my guide” It was the first time walking & sleeping in the selva for him.

Old man fishing in the Rio Maranon

The boots sleep here!

Very rare to see a Caiman in the river near Iquitos.”They have all been eaten” said one of the locals.

Track Iquitos to Nauta

Track Rio Orosa to Iquitos

A large blue-footed caterpillar

Diego resting his back after carrying the heavy pack.

Trekking through jungle near to Rio Orosa Peru

Me about halfway through the 13 km swim crossing the Amazon river to the city of Iquitos

A cargo ship passes as i swim creating waves big enough to surf on (Near Iquitos Peru)

Earth machine in action. The forest making rain

Shipibo funeral. They sing for several nights.

Diego boarding the return boat to Rio Orosa.

A military parade every Sunday in Iquitos

Old Lady making chord sourced from the bark of a tree “ I am making a hammock, it takes me three months to make one” She told me. Rio Orosa Loretto, Peru.

Indigenous community member down river from Iquitos demonstrating blow pipe.

View of the Itaya bay and floating house in front of the tourist area in Iquitos

Satellite view of Iquitos Peru. You can see the Itaya bay Middle Left. Top left of the city is Belen the floating village where most of the poorest people in Iquitos live. Iquitos Loretto Peru.

Girl from the village with a pet monkey sleeping other head.

Old Lady making chord sourced from the bark of a tree “ I am making a hammock, it takes me three months to make one” She told me. Rio Orosa Loretto, Peru.

Myself and Diego (front) walking through relatively clean Un-touched jungle. 18km inland from Rio Amazon. Peru

Moto Taxi Iquitos. One of 25,000

Three kilometers from Alto Monte Israel. We were welcomed into this house for food and coffee.

One of the easier river crossings, when a fallen tree acts as a bridge.

Alto Monte Israel community members. Drying maze in the tropical sun after 5 days of rain.

Diego returns home to Atalaya in Brazil

An interesting large spine covered tree i had not seen before. No good for tying a hammock!

many naturally growing Heliconia plants are a welcoming contrast to the endless green flora of the jungle.

Slow boat back up the Yavari after getting my Peru entry stamp. Complex logistics but time & patience prevailed….

First small friendly community on the Rio Oroza after 13 days of challenging jungle. Diego chats in Spanish to the President.

Palmari to Eastiron

Atalaia do Norte to near Estiron. via Palmari on the Rio Javari & border.

Feijoal to Atalaia do Norte

Tracking map 3, showing Sao Paulo de Olivença to Eastiron – complete route.

Mouth of the Rio Javari at Benjamin Constant Port. Peruvian and Brazilian flags decorate many boats of upriver indigenous communities along the Rio Javari. Many people speak both Spanish and Portuguese.

Bald_uakari monkey We saw many of these recently.

After walking over 70 kilometres through the Jungle, Diego and I hit the 12 km mud road that leads to Benjamin Constant

run up to elections bring many people onto the streets. Benjamin Constant.

Many indigenous & religious people visit the early markets in Benjamin to buy and sell their produce.

The resident mischievous Tucan at Reserve Natural Palmari.

NASA flooded forest data. Light grey is flooded forest, but it was just starting to flood as we crossed to Eastiron from Benjamin Constant.

Street view. Atalaya de Norte Border of Peru

Diego and I arrive safe and sound at the community on the Peruvian Border on the Rio Javari, after a testing traverse. Relieved and happy. Rio Javari. Peru. Amazonas

A popular & cheap fish in the rivers of Amazonas

Banana tree

Crispin writes Tapier (Anta) in Ticuna

Cacaqui Nibson at Ticuna community Tupi, near Feijoal, Amazonas

Jonny fills his bottle with “Agua mineral” from one of the flowing small rivers.

Crispin carves the Ticuna name for a Tapir. Near Feijoal.

Crispin me and Jonny at Ticuna Jerusalem community.

Jerusalem community canopy view

Cooking fish at Jerusalem Ticuna community

Panorama view of Nova Informa community

Ticuna hunters from community Nova Informa walk with us to Tupi

Termites nest on tree?

Arrival at Nova Experenca community. Near Sao Paulo do Olivencia

Cacaqui Larindo. Rio Amatura

Tambaqui community

Jonny & Flavio return to Tambaqui

Crispin. Ticuna guide Aug Sept 2018

Ticuna Tambaqui community. Near Amatura

Bee on my backpack

Port view Amatura at high water

Church celebration Amatura, Amazons

Amazon in flood.View Orishimina, Para

Popular fish to eat.

Amateur painting guest house

Cacaqui Analdo & family. Nova Italia Rio Amatura

Two community members joined me for the last 4km. Rio Jutai

22km swim down the fast flowing Rio Jutai

Tree jump Rio Jutai community

Anderson gets tested positive for malaria. Sabastio checks the blood sample.

Brazilian flag. Ordem e Progresso

Welling boots have replaced my worn out Altberg boots!

Sleeping on a high set up

Our favourite site we camped at on this last leg i named the golden river camp.

Everaldo keeps community residents entertained recounting events from our traverse. Community Rio Jutai

Risky Log Crossings are part of every hour Walking

Ready to get going again after a rest and re-supply of food. Rio Jutai

Sleeping on a high, My cozy hammock sitting high off the ground.

View from the port of Amatura

Everaldo

Community members relax playing dominos and drinking coffee, after working all day making Farina.

Walking past the base of a freshly fallen tree.

Franscio and family overlooking the stunning Rio Jutai

Franscio and family at home

Rain season is upon us. The rain radar image

Tracking map Juruá to Amaturá

Tracking map Jurua to Amaturá

Tracking map Juruá to Amaturá

Tracking map. Leaving Jurua

Collecting clean sand filtered drinking water.

Brewing coffee above flooded forest. Juruá Amazonas.

Fisherman on the Rio Breu

Everaldo in front of a giant Kapok tree one of the biggest trees in the Amazon. Rio Breu Juruá Amazonas.

Google Earth map showing how we managed to reach terra firma.

NASA flood data image courtesy of NASA jet propulsion laboratory (NASA Wetlands JPL)

Fresh clean sand filtered water

Won’t get dehydrated here! Me crossing one of the smaller rivers. Amazonas

Sleeping above flooded forest

Zebeitich in his canoe returning to Juruá City.

Various colours of mushroom

Everaldo

Marie “I can make 7 a day if i have time”

Community members making farina

Caco do mato. We ate many of these naturally growing fruit

Giant red eye Piraña

Frog wouldn’t move when we cleared to make camp

Harvesting Brazil nuts

Tracking map 1 Tefe to Jurua

Tracking map 2 Tefe to Jurua

Tracking map 2 Coari to Tefe

Tracking map 1 Coari to Tefe

Myself and Erland on the final stretch to Tefé happy to find a road. Tefé: Amazonas: Brazil

An armed military escort: Lago Catuá: Tefé: Amazonas: Brazil

Jhonatan and Erland playing football. Check out the Woolley monkey in goal. Lago do Coari: Amazonas: Brazil

Erland Ribeiro da Cunha

A tiny nest and solitary humming bird egg. Amazonas: Brazil

A young captive Tapir. Amazonas: Brazil

Erland opening Brazil nuts, we feasted on these as it’s in season. Tefé: Amazonas: Brazil

Jhonatan and Erland near to Tefe

Erland & venomous snakeTefé: Amazonas: Brazil

Sleeping under a farinha processing hut. No need for a fly sheet! Coari:Amazonas: Brazil

Woolly monkey: Lago do Coari: Amazonas: Brazil

community member collecting manyoka for processing Lago do Coari: community São José da Boa Vista. Amazonas: Brazil

Terra Vermelha community Rio Purus

Boat from Beruri to Terra Vermelha

Pasquale and Jhonatan discuss route ahead

Terra Vermelha community

Giant caterpillar

Me organising food supplies

Community we passed

Bees like the salt from sweat

Tracking map 1 Purus to Coati

Tracking map 2 Purus to Coari

Jhonatan Jose & son- Boat to Terra Vermelha

We had be stings most days.Spot the nest under a leaf

Dry forest soon will be underwater

Jhonatan

Jhonatan points to watermark 5 meters above

brewing coffee. 6 months time this will be 9 meters under water

Cosy campsite on a reserve trail

Brazil nut tree

Opening a Brazil nut pod: Amazonas Brazil

Room with a jungle view. Amazonas Brazil

Giant beetle

Flooded forest: Amazonas Brazil

Passenger boat heads down the winding Rio Purus

Floating houses Rio Purus

return boat to Rio Purus

Panorama Port of Manaus

Aerial view. Manaus. Amazonas

Street scene Manaus city

Me looking very thin

Blue mushrooms

Cooking rice and coffee

Cayetano training in pack-raft

Large metallic green flying beetle

Altberg boots

Cayetano walking on a fallen tree

Vultures drying out in the sun

The 100Km route from Igapo Asu to Rio Purus

Infected & extreamly painful feet

A disused house i stayed at BR 319

I was rescued from a storm and stayed with these fine people BR319

Manaus to Igapo Asu 250Km

Manaus to igapo Asu on my own

Old colonial building Manaus

Cafe wall Igapo Asui i think

Disused collapssed bridge

A wealthy fazenda farm BR 319

Photosynthesis

buffolo and cart on an Island close to Manaus city

Evangelical family On route to Manaus

Shells and pottery embedded in rock

Dots joined.Porto de Moz

Panoramic view of Manaus port

Thirst quenching fruit along the roadside

Preying Mantis on billiard table

A Sloth on the roadside

Valdo

Return boat to Manaus

Logs exiting the Paru river

Armoured cat fish: Rio Xingu

Moses and his boat Rio Amazonas

Family and Moses discuss route

River Family near Almeirim

Valdo

Me on the road to Manaus

Tracking map to Manaus

Meeting of the waters Manaus

Valdo returns to Oriximina from Manaus

Closed banks of the Amazon, Near Almeirim

Me walking along the bank, as the forest was impossible in places

A young Caiman heads for the river

Boat to Almeirim

Tracking map: Faro to Itaprianga: Amazonas

Low water exposes a bank of rock along the bank of Amazon river

Me walking along the bank of the Amazon

Giant water lilies Sao Sabastio: Amazonas

Valdo walking across a dried out river: Ucacara: Amazonas

Valdo walking below a clear section of ground below power line

Community in Santa Maria:.Amazonas

The low waters expose sand banks: Faro: Para

Road to Faro

Tracking map.Oriximina to Faro

Friendly faces at a community Terra Santa: Para

No need for gas or electric to cook here!

Vultures Oriximina:Para Brazil

Fish market Oriximina:Para Brazil

Walking along bank of Amazon river at low water

Panorama Santa Maria

Junior Roselinda & Rodrego: Oriximina: Para

Valdo and Cousin. Oriximina

Clean fresh water from a well: Pacoval community

Edson re-hydrating

Wearing a dust mask & sun hat on the open road

Edson arrives back from Manaus

Alanquer to Oriximina: Para Brazil

Evangelical family, Near Obidis Para Brazil

Panorama of Alter do Chao beach: Para Brazil

Elevation profile of some of the jungle near Manaus

A fazenda party at a top hotel in Santarem

Traversing water method

Nasa image of forest fires in Para Brazil

Sunset: Altar do Chao para Brazil

Iguana

Almeirim community street

Tracking map data

Tracker map Monte Alegre to Alanquer. At times the tracker failed to record. hence the gaps

My poor worn out boots need replacing

Giant beetle

Almeirim street

Antonio demonstrates an animal gun trap, a trip wire triggers the shotgun

A small community at times has food and drinks for sale along the road

Women playing football, Bom Futuro community

Leaf cutter ants

Antonio

Scorpion

The temptation of an ice cold beer after walking in the tropical heat was irresistible.

Antonio

Bushmaster snake

a fallen tree, at times becomes a bridge across rivers

Diffrent types of locust

One of many fazenda farms we passed

Fresh Jaguar footprints in the sandy road

Many species of butterfly in the Amazon

Fresh drinking water need frequently

Cupim has many vultures

Goods trucks on the back roads kicking up dust

A large venomous snake killed at the back of a family house

Giant caterpillars with a powerful sting

The long and winding roads that cut through the rainforest

The long baking hot roads that lead to Santarem start here.

Antonio and young family: Almeirim Para

Unloading bricks: Para Brazil

Wall painting on house: Porto de Moz: Brazil

The map shows where i need to walk connect the dots on my tracker

Trees come in all shapes and sizes. Para Brazil

Extracting rubber from tree

Paulo & I escape to return to Portel hospital.

Paulo ( guide ) overlooking the Rio Xingu: Porto de Moz

Spider monkey? Caxiuanã National Forest

Boa: Caxiuanã National Forest

Raimundo & Maria: Baia do Caxiuanã

Boot size Tarantula: Caxiuanã National Forest

12 inch Lizard: Caxiuanã National Forest

The long and winding road that leads to Rio Xingu

Taking a break: Caxiuanã National Forest

Ants nest below: Caxiuanã National Forest

Delorme inreach Tracking map: Portel to Porto de Moz

Heading west: Baia do Caxiuanã

New church: Baia do Caxiuanã

Portel museum artefacts

Traditional music & dance: Portel

Hennessy Hammock -desk office

Unusual spider hitches a ride on my Backpack

Boy climbing a tree

Paulo opening a Brazil nut pod

Tortoise

On the hunt for food

Delorme Inreach tracking map

Kapok tree, a giant in the rainforest

Brewing the morning coffee

We encountered small pockets of naturally open ground

A young Sloth adopted by a family after its mother was killed

Most families have a pet Macaw or Parrot

View from Portel

Close encounter with a Sloth

Diy floatation device, evolving ideas.

You can buy a Machete at a supermarket here. Para Brazil

A small shop at a river community: Para Brazil

Making the small baskets to catch shrimps: Rio Buiuci Para Brazil

Drying and producing Farina a root vegetable everyone eats here: Para Brazil

Harvesting Farina. Para Brazil

The high spring tide and gravitational pull of a full moon create the tidal bore -Pororoca

Mother and daughter prepping shrimps for cooking. Rio Buiuci Para Brazil

Hand made for catching freshwater shrimps every day. Rio Buiuci Para Brazil

Boat builder. Everaldo with his son: Rio Carnajuba Para Brazil

Giant cargo ships pass frequently on route to Manaus and other cities: Rio Buiuci Para Brazil

Me eating one of the many different fruit we encountered

28 year old pet Parrot at a river house: Para Brazil

The weekly football match at a river community

Lorimar and daughter: The family helped me out when i was in Piria

A giant of the spider world: Tarantula

The Delorme Inreach tracks my route:Piria to Breves

A football match at a small river community

A regular site at all ports

Jesuio walks barefoot through the jungle: Breves Para Brazil

Agouti: The Brazil nut tree would not exist without this animal.

The Giant Blue Morpho butterfly: Side view

Jesuio Santos: My guide from Piria to Breves

House in Piria Brazil

Cutting wood to build a new house

Making Farina: Piria Brazil

Remote but connected Piria Marajo

Rio Marituba: Marajo

House on the Rio Paracuumba Marajo

Rio Canaticu; Marajo

Many spiked plants

Water world Marajo

Tree of rivers Google Earth

Cacao fruit

Boy & Cat Marajo

Edlsion Apelido: Guide Marajo

Edson Lima: Marajo guide

Young boat driver: Muana Marajo

Fazenda: Panoramic:Marajo

River house family: Sao Miguel Marajo

Acai Girl & dog: Marajo

Acai: Marajo

Fazanda family kitchen: Marajo

Young pet pig: Pesquero: Marajo

Buff& cart: Pesquero: Marajo

Edilson my first guide: Marajo

Big swim No 3: Marajo

Long road to Monseras

Police use Buffalo: Marajo

Buffalo police Soure

Scarlet Ibis.

Parched ground of Marajo

Jose on his fathers hourse

A snake found in the toilet

Houses on stilts: Marajo

Community at Ponta de Pedros

Me at Pesquero house: Marajo

Pesquero family Marajo

Fesita Natal: Marajo

Fesita: Marajo