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Drying Farina. Alto rio Tapiche, Peru
Learning new bushcraft skills. Alto Tapiche.
Walking in Pucallpa city
“If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water.” Loren Eiseley
Port of Contamana
Roof construction. Rio Tapiche, Peru.
Weaving palm-leaf roof tiles.
Arial view of low river levels, Rio Tapiche.
Tracking map to Pucallpa, Peru.
Tree of rivers. Amazon basin map
A timeless Jurassic landscape.
Wild cat at the farm. Alto Tapiche, Peru.
Arial view of the forested mountains near to Contamana, Peru
Drying farina, Alto Tapiche, Peru.
“In every landscape, the point of astonishment is the meeting of sky & earth.” – Emerson. Photo Rio Ucayali Peru
Near to Pucallpa Peru gigantic Palm oil plantation we had to walk around.
The farmhouse. A pano photo at 5.30 am, my favourite time of day on the small farm. The river is on the right.
Marielisa at the farm, originally from Iquitos. Alto Tapiche Loreto Peru
Making Farina at the farm. Alto Tapachi, Loreto Peru.
I called this unusual looking tree a pot-belly tree, Pizarro knew the name but i can’t remember.
A large chameleon on a sandbank looks out over the low river next to the farmhouse i stayed at. AltoTapiche
View or Ucayali river from Contamana Peru.
Many thanks to Pizarro for being great company and parting with his vast knowledge as we walked. Photo: Port of Contamana Peru
The first concrete bridge 10km from Pucallpa city
A Jurassic landscape
Pizarro & me arrive in Pucallpa city
Walking into Pucallpa city the Shibibo-Conibo infulence strong here
Pigs sleeping at the farmhouse
Children in the Kapanawa community Fati
A captive young Howler monkey becomes a pet after its mother was killed to feed a family.
A Parakeet feeds on freshly crushed yucca before its made into Farina.Alto Tapiche Loreto Peru
The aptly named Frontera one of only two pueblos all of whom are Kapanawa. Alto Tapiche, Peru
Water The Elixir of Life.
Children in the Kapanawa community harvesting plantain, an important part of their daily diet. Limon Cocha, Alto Tapachi, Loreto Peru.
Pela Yucca – Community members peeling yucca
Harvesting sugar cane
Children of the Kapanawa community Frontera These gentle people are hunter gatherers they are some of the last remaining indigenous people on the frontier of so called modern civilisation, thankfully they have managed to retain their original language.
Palm thatching for the roof
Roof construction. Alto Tapiche Peru
Working for my food
Jake recieving urgent treatment for snake bite. Fatima Alto rio Tapiche Peru
Kapanawa people washing clothes. Limon Cocha Alto Tapiche Loreto Peru
Kapanawa boy helping to clear area to plant Yucca
Pizarro (Hoapa his Kapanawa name)
Moon Mars & Jupiter rising? Zero light pollution & a clear night sky is perfect for stargazing. San Pedro Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru
Shot-guns replace blow-guns. Rio Tapiche Loreto to Peru.
Wall painting. Tapichi Loreto Peru
Me washing in a small river. In 3 months time this river will be several meters higher.
At one community we were given the use of an empty building to sleep in. Jorge brushing teeth before we set off again. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.
Jorge chats to Blas at community Galica as he builds a house for his son. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru
A typical kitchen set up. Community Galica Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.
Many boats arrive in the bigger towns to sell their harvest. Requena Loreto Peru
A family live in this house on the riverbank, not sure i could sleep well if it were my home. Requena Loreto Peru
We are all on a journey. The returning boat to Santa Elena. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.
Boy staying cool under the tropical sun in a rain filled canoe. Santa Elena rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.
Kinder end of term party in Santa Elena. The children break for three months here, returning to school in March. Rio Tapiche Loreto Peru.
River of life. Santa Elena Rio Tapiche. Loreto Peru
Clearing the reed/grass on the dried out riverbank to plant crops before the water rises again.Tapiche Loreto Peru
A festive photo! A stark contrast to the endless green. They remind me of red wax candles with a flame. Loreto Peru
Facing the terrain. Satellite image of a section of the zig zagging rio Tapiche.
Joining the aquatic residents of the Tapiche. One of several swims i had to do to continue walking on the other side.
Plaza Santa Elena. Rio Tapiche. Panorama
A big thank you to Jorge who bravely accompanied me the last few months. He returns to the work he loves, teaching mathermatics in the new year. Loreto Peru
Clearing land to grow yucca for community.
Walking on a dry riverbed. Loreto Peru
Swim done across Rio Ucayali
Wall paintings Nauta Peru.
Nauta to Requena Track points.
Thanks to maths teacher Jorge who bravely accompanied me on the traverse from nauta to Requena, he modestly said “you are my guide” It was the first time walking & sleeping in the selva for him.
Old man fishing in the Rio Maranon
The boots sleep here!
Very rare to see a Caiman in the river near Iquitos.”They have all been eaten” said one of the locals.
Track Iquitos to Nauta
Track Rio Orosa to Iquitos
A large blue-footed caterpillar
Diego resting his back after carrying the heavy pack.
Trekking through jungle near to Rio Orosa Peru
Me about halfway through the 13 km swim crossing the Amazon river to the city of Iquitos
A cargo ship passes as i swim creating waves big enough to surf on (Near Iquitos Peru)
Earth machine in action. The forest making rain
Shipibo funeral. They sing for several nights.
Diego boarding the return boat to Rio Orosa.
A military parade every Sunday in Iquitos
Old Lady making chord sourced from the bark of a tree “ I am making a hammock, it takes me three months to make one” She told me. Rio Orosa Loretto, Peru.
Indigenous community member down river from Iquitos demonstrating blow pipe.
View of the Itaya bay and floating house in front of the tourist area in Iquitos
Satellite view of Iquitos Peru. You can see the Itaya bay Middle Left. Top left of the city is Belen the floating village where most of the poorest people in Iquitos live. Iquitos Loretto Peru.
Girl from the village with a pet monkey sleeping other head.
Old Lady making chord sourced from the bark of a tree “ I am making a hammock, it takes me three months to make one” She told me. Rio Orosa Loretto, Peru.
Myself and Diego (front) walking through relatively clean Un-touched jungle. 18km inland from Rio Amazon. Peru
Moto Taxi Iquitos. One of 25,000
Three kilometers from Alto Monte Israel. We were welcomed into this house for food and coffee.
One of the easier river crossings, when a fallen tree acts as a bridge.
Alto Monte Israel community members. Drying maze in the tropical sun after 5 days of rain.
Diego returns home to Atalaya in Brazil
An interesting large spine covered tree i had not seen before. No good for tying a hammock!
many naturally growing Heliconia plants are a welcoming contrast to the endless green flora of the jungle.
Slow boat back up the Yavari after getting my Peru entry stamp. Complex logistics but time & patience prevailed….
First small friendly community on the Rio Oroza after 13 days of challenging jungle. Diego chats in Spanish to the President.
Palmari to Eastiron
Atalaia do Norte to near Estiron. via Palmari on the Rio Javari & border.
Feijoal to Atalaia do Norte
Tracking map 3, showing Sao Paulo de Olivença to Eastiron – complete route.
Mouth of the Rio Javari at Benjamin Constant Port. Peruvian and Brazilian flags decorate many boats of upriver indigenous communities along the Rio Javari. Many people speak both Spanish and Portuguese.
Bald_uakari monkey We saw many of these recently.
After walking over 70 kilometres through the Jungle, Diego and I hit the 12 km mud road that leads to Benjamin Constant
run up to elections bring many people onto the streets. Benjamin Constant.
Many indigenous & religious people visit the early markets in Benjamin to buy and sell their produce.
The resident mischievous Tucan at Reserve Natural Palmari.
NASA flooded forest data. Light grey is flooded forest, but it was just starting to flood as we crossed to Eastiron from Benjamin Constant.
Street view. Atalaya de Norte Border of Peru
Diego and I arrive safe and sound at the community on the Peruvian Border on the Rio Javari, after a testing traverse. Relieved and happy. Rio Javari. Peru. Amazonas
A popular & cheap fish in the rivers of Amazonas
Crispin writes Tapier (Anta) in Ticuna
Cacaqui Nibson at Ticuna community Tupi, near Feijoal, Amazonas
Jonny fills his bottle with “Agua mineral” from one of the flowing small rivers.
Crispin carves the Ticuna name for a Tapir. Near Feijoal.
Crispin me and Jonny at Ticuna Jerusalem community.
Jerusalem community canopy view
Cooking fish at Jerusalem Ticuna community
Panorama view of Nova Informa community
Ticuna hunters from community Nova Informa walk with us to Tupi
Termites nest on tree?
Arrival at Nova Experenca community. Near Sao Paulo do Olivencia
Cacaqui Larindo. Rio Amatura
Jonny & Flavio return to Tambaqui
Crispin. Ticuna guide Aug Sept 2018
Ticuna Tambaqui community. Near Amatura
Bee on my backpack
Port view Amatura at high water
Church celebration Amatura, Amazons
Amazon in flood.View Orishimina, Para
Popular fish to eat.
Amateur painting guest house
Cacaqui Analdo & family. Nova Italia Rio Amatura
Two community members joined me for the last 4km. Rio Jutai
22km swim down the fast flowing Rio Jutai
Tree jump Rio Jutai community
Anderson gets tested positive for malaria. Sabastio checks the blood sample.
Brazilian flag. Ordem e Progresso
Welling boots have replaced my worn out Altberg boots!
Sleeping on a high set up
Our favourite site we camped at on this last leg i named the golden river camp.
Everaldo keeps community residents entertained recounting events from our traverse. Community Rio Jutai
Risky Log Crossings are part of every hour Walking
Ready to get going again after a rest and re-supply of food. Rio Jutai
Sleeping on a high, My cozy hammock sitting high off the ground.
View from the port of Amatura
Community members relax playing dominos and drinking coffee, after working all day making Farina.
Walking past the base of a freshly fallen tree.
Franscio and family overlooking the stunning Rio Jutai
Franscio and family at home
Rain season is upon us. The rain radar image
Tracking map Juruá to Amaturá
Tracking map Jurua to Amaturá
Tracking map Juruá to Amaturá
Tracking map. Leaving Jurua
Collecting clean sand filtered drinking water.
Brewing coffee above flooded forest. Juruá Amazonas.
Fisherman on the Rio Breu
Everaldo in front of a giant Kapok tree one of the biggest trees in the Amazon. Rio Breu Juruá Amazonas.
Google Earth map showing how we managed to reach terra firma.
NASA flood data image courtesy of NASA jet propulsion laboratory (NASA Wetlands JPL)
Fresh clean sand filtered water
Won’t get dehydrated here! Me crossing one of the smaller rivers. Amazonas
Sleeping above flooded forest
Zebeitich in his canoe returning to Juruá City.
Various colours of mushroom
Marie “I can make 7 a day if i have time”
Community members making farina
Caco do mato. We ate many of these naturally growing fruit
Giant red eye Piraña
Frog wouldn’t move when we cleared to make camp
Harvesting Brazil nuts
Tracking map 1 Tefe to Jurua
Tracking map 2 Tefe to Jurua
Tracking map 2 Coari to Tefe
Tracking map 1 Coari to Tefe
Myself and Erland on the final stretch to Tefé happy to find a road. Tefé: Amazonas: Brazil
An armed military escort: Lago Catuá: Tefé: Amazonas: Brazil
Jhonatan and Erland playing football. Check out the Woolley monkey in goal. Lago do Coari: Amazonas: Brazil
Erland Ribeiro da Cunha
A tiny nest and solitary humming bird egg. Amazonas: Brazil
A young captive Tapir. Amazonas: Brazil
Erland opening Brazil nuts, we feasted on these as it’s in season. Tefé: Amazonas: Brazil
Jhonatan and Erland near to Tefe
Erland & venomous snakeTefé: Amazonas: Brazil
Sleeping under a farinha processing hut. No need for a fly sheet! Coari:Amazonas: Brazil
Woolly monkey: Lago do Coari: Amazonas: Brazil
community member collecting manyoka for processing Lago do Coari: community São José da Boa Vista. Amazonas: Brazil
Terra Vermelha community Rio Purus
Boat from Beruri to Terra Vermelha
Pasquale and Jhonatan discuss route ahead
Terra Vermelha community
Me organising food supplies
Community we passed
Bees like the salt from sweat
Tracking map 1 Purus to Coati
Tracking map 2 Purus to Coari
Jhonatan Jose & son- Boat to Terra Vermelha
We had be stings most days.Spot the nest under a leaf
Dry forest soon will be underwater
Jhonatan points to watermark 5 meters above
brewing coffee. 6 months time this will be 9 meters under water
Cosy campsite on a reserve trail
Brazil nut tree
Opening a Brazil nut pod: Amazonas Brazil
Room with a jungle view. Amazonas Brazil
Flooded forest: Amazonas Brazil
Passenger boat heads down the winding Rio Purus
Floating houses Rio Purus
return boat to Rio Purus
Panorama Port of Manaus
Aerial view. Manaus. Amazonas
Street scene Manaus city
Me looking very thin
Cooking rice and coffee
Cayetano training in pack-raft
Large metallic green flying beetle
Cayetano walking on a fallen tree
Vultures drying out in the sun
The 100Km route from Igapo Asu to Rio Purus
Infected & extreamly painful feet
A disused house i stayed at BR 319
I was rescued from a storm and stayed with these fine people BR319
Manaus to Igapo Asu 250Km
Manaus to igapo Asu on my own
Old colonial building Manaus
Cafe wall Igapo Asui i think
Disused collapssed bridge
A wealthy fazenda farm BR 319
buffolo and cart on an Island close to Manaus city
Evangelical family On route to Manaus
Shells and pottery embedded in rock
Dots joined.Porto de Moz
Panoramic view of Manaus port
Thirst quenching fruit along the roadside
Preying Mantis on billiard table
A Sloth on the roadside
Return boat to Manaus
Logs exiting the Paru river
Armoured cat fish: Rio Xingu
Moses and his boat Rio Amazonas
Family and Moses discuss route
River Family near Almeirim
Me on the road to Manaus
Tracking map to Manaus
Meeting of the waters Manaus
Valdo returns to Oriximina from Manaus
Closed banks of the Amazon, Near Almeirim
Me walking along the bank, as the forest was impossible in places
A young Caiman heads for the river
Boat to Almeirim
Tracking map: Faro to Itaprianga: Amazonas
Low water exposes a bank of rock along the bank of Amazon river
Me walking along the bank of the Amazon
Giant water lilies Sao Sabastio: Amazonas
Valdo walking across a dried out river: Ucacara: Amazonas
Valdo walking below a clear section of ground below power line
Community in Santa Maria:.Amazonas
The low waters expose sand banks: Faro: Para
Road to Faro
Tracking map.Oriximina to Faro
Friendly faces at a community Terra Santa: Para
No need for gas or electric to cook here!
Vultures Oriximina:Para Brazil
Fish market Oriximina:Para Brazil
Walking along bank of Amazon river at low water
Panorama Santa Maria
Junior Roselinda & Rodrego: Oriximina: Para
Valdo and Cousin. Oriximina
Clean fresh water from a well: Pacoval community
Wearing a dust mask & sun hat on the open road
Edson arrives back from Manaus
Alanquer to Oriximina: Para Brazil
Evangelical family, Near Obidis Para Brazil
Panorama of Alter do Chao beach: Para Brazil
Elevation profile of some of the jungle near Manaus
A fazenda party at a top hotel in Santarem
Traversing water method
Nasa image of forest fires in Para Brazil
Sunset: Altar do Chao para Brazil
Almeirim community street
Tracking map data
Tracker map Monte Alegre to Alanquer. At times the tracker failed to record. hence the gaps
My poor worn out boots need replacing
Antonio demonstrates an animal gun trap, a trip wire triggers the shotgun
A small community at times has food and drinks for sale along the road
Women playing football, Bom Futuro community
Leaf cutter ants
The temptation of an ice cold beer after walking in the tropical heat was irresistible.
a fallen tree, at times becomes a bridge across rivers
Diffrent types of locust
One of many fazenda farms we passed
Fresh Jaguar footprints in the sandy road
Many species of butterfly in the Amazon
Fresh drinking water need frequently
Cupim has many vultures
Goods trucks on the back roads kicking up dust
A large venomous snake killed at the back of a family house
Giant caterpillars with a powerful sting
The long and winding roads that cut through the rainforest
The long baking hot roads that lead to Santarem start here.
Antonio and young family: Almeirim Para
Unloading bricks: Para Brazil
Wall painting on house: Porto de Moz: Brazil
The map shows where i need to walk connect the dots on my tracker
Trees come in all shapes and sizes. Para Brazil
Extracting rubber from tree
Paulo & I escape to return to Portel hospital.
Paulo ( guide ) overlooking the Rio Xingu: Porto de Moz
Spider monkey? Caxiuanã National Forest
Boa: Caxiuanã National Forest
Raimundo & Maria: Baia do Caxiuanã
Boot size Tarantula: Caxiuanã National Forest
12 inch Lizard: Caxiuanã National Forest
The long and winding road that leads to Rio Xingu
Taking a break: Caxiuanã National Forest
Ants nest below: Caxiuanã National Forest
Delorme inreach Tracking map: Portel to Porto de Moz
Heading west: Baia do Caxiuanã
New church: Baia do Caxiuanã
Portel museum artefacts
Traditional music & dance: Portel
Hennessy Hammock -desk office
Unusual spider hitches a ride on my Backpack
Boy climbing a tree
Paulo opening a Brazil nut pod
On the hunt for food
Delorme Inreach tracking map
Kapok tree, a giant in the rainforest
Brewing the morning coffee
We encountered small pockets of naturally open ground
A young Sloth adopted by a family after its mother was killed
Most families have a pet Macaw or Parrot
View from Portel
Close encounter with a Sloth
Diy floatation device, evolving ideas.
You can buy a Machete at a supermarket here. Para Brazil
A small shop at a river community: Para Brazil
Making the small baskets to catch shrimps: Rio Buiuci Para Brazil
Drying and producing Farina a root vegetable everyone eats here: Para Brazil
Harvesting Farina. Para Brazil
The high spring tide and gravitational pull of a full moon create the tidal bore -Pororoca
Mother and daughter prepping shrimps for cooking. Rio Buiuci Para Brazil
Hand made for catching freshwater shrimps every day. Rio Buiuci Para Brazil
Boat builder. Everaldo with his son: Rio Carnajuba Para Brazil
Giant cargo ships pass frequently on route to Manaus and other cities: Rio Buiuci Para Brazil
Me eating one of the many different fruit we encountered
28 year old pet Parrot at a river house: Para Brazil
The weekly football match at a river community
Lorimar and daughter: The family helped me out when i was in Piria
A giant of the spider world: Tarantula
The Delorme Inreach tracks my route:Piria to Breves
A football match at a small river community
A regular site at all ports
Jesuio walks barefoot through the jungle: Breves Para Brazil
Agouti: The Brazil nut tree would not exist without this animal.
The Giant Blue Morpho butterfly: Side view
Jesuio Santos: My guide from Piria to Breves
House in Piria Brazil
Cutting wood to build a new house
Making Farina: Piria Brazil
Remote but connected Piria Marajo
Rio Marituba: Marajo
House on the Rio Paracuumba Marajo
Rio Canaticu; Marajo
Many spiked plants
Water world Marajo
Tree of rivers Google Earth
Boy & Cat Marajo
Edlsion Apelido: Guide Marajo
Edson Lima: Marajo guide
Young boat driver: Muana Marajo
River house family: Sao Miguel Marajo
Acai Girl & dog: Marajo
Fazanda family kitchen: Marajo
Young pet pig: Pesquero: Marajo
Buff& cart: Pesquero: Marajo
Edilson my first guide: Marajo
Big swim No 3: Marajo
Long road to Monseras
Police use Buffalo: Marajo
Buffalo police Soure
Parched ground of Marajo
Jose on his fathers hourse
A snake found in the toilet
Houses on stilts: Marajo
Community at Ponta de Pedros
Me at Pesquero house: Marajo
Pesquero family Marajo
Fesita Natal: Marajo