Alter do Chão and the road ahead

The warm, crystal-clear, salt-free waters of the Tapajos river here in Amazonas combined with a natural sand bar and almost white sand makes for the perfect beach. Even though I’m on an expedition, the temptation to visit this place I’d never previously heard about was too much after I was seduced by stories about the … Read more »


Scrambled heads in Santarém

I’m currently in the large jungle city of Santarém. Antonio, my recent guide, returns home today to Almeirim. His young wife is expecting the imminent arrival of their second child. It was a good experience walking with him, he was keen to learn some English and I picked up a few more Portuguese words. He … Read more »