I have now arrived at the mouth of the giant Rio Xingu, one of the longest tributaries that runs into the Rio Amazonas. It’s also controversial because of the Belo Monte dam project that is currently under construction further up the river. It’s going to create a huge supply of hydroelectricity for Brazil but it will also affect indigenous communities including the Kayapo who have been protesting against the dam since 1975 at its conception.

“The word “Xingu” derives from “Yh uu”, an Asuriní Tupi-guarani language word that means Great Water. This is the name by which the Asuriní know the Xingu river. It is also the name of the ‘great water that ends where the sky and the earth meet’ in the Asuriní cosmology.”

Crossing Caxiuanã forest to get to Porto De Moz has been interesting because seeing an untouched section of forest is a bit like going back in time. It’s probably no different to what it was like 10,000 years ago, whereas unprotected forests have had most of the hardwood trees removed and there is less wildlife due to over-hunting. Deforested areas are also quickly invaded by closed, tangled, low-growing vegetation, as the ground is suddenly bathed in sunlight.

We have had to cover a lot of both types of ground, and the seasonal rain storms here have been regular and pretty intense, so we’ve been close to a few trees falling when walking and several close lighting strikes. At night, before making camp, I make sure there are no old trees or branches (deadfall) that could fall onto us during the night. But summer is just around the corner, so less rain and lower river levels should make it a bit easier for walking.

I’m currently route-planning and looking for a new guide to traverse to Santarem with me. Paulo is going to pass the baton (or backpack) to another guide, when I have found one, as he has to return to Portel. He has seasonal employment that runs mainly in the summer drier months here July- December.

Although they may never read this i would also like to say a big thank you to all the river communities I’ve come into contact with – their hospitality and generosity has been incredible.

I hope to get walking again ASAP.

 

 Header photo: Paulo looking over the Rio Xingu from the hotel: Porto de Moz, Pará, Brazil

.

.

Met some fazenda residents whilst walking on the road to Porto de Moz: Pará, Brazil

.

.

Spider monkey?: Caxiuanã National forest, Pará, Brazil

.

.

Resting on a fallen tree. We’ve had to climb over, under & around many of these. Caxiuanã National forest, Pará, Brazil

.

.

 Medium-sized boot encounters extra-large spider. Spider and boot-owner survived. Caxiuanã National forest, Pará, Brazil

.

.

Raimundo and Maria made us very welcome at Baia do Caxiuanã. We travelled back to Portel twice on their boat: Pará, Brazil

.

.

Spot the 2-metre plus boa constrictor. Caxiuanã National forest, Pará, Brazil

.

.

Spotted a few of these large lizards about 30cm long: Caxiuanã National forest, Pará, Brazil

.

.

Not sure of the name of the ants that make these, but I think they are ventilation shafts for the nest below ground. Caxiuanã National forest, Pará, Brazil

.

.

My Delorme tracking map showing the route I took and location I sent messages: Portel to Porto de Moz

.

Interactive map-Pan and zoom to see more detail.