Buffalo, a fiesta and a walk

The small fishing community of Pesqueiro basically kind-napped me from the little hotel and insisted I stayed with them for free. What amazing and generous people. They were also having their annual festival at the weekend, and asked me to stay. I was planning to walk again, but how could I possibly turn down their offer?

It was well worth the stay, the festa was amazing, and I managed to film some of it –  non-stop music, dancing, drinking & eating locally produced food like, açai, fish, chicken, rice, fruit, beans, meat, and farinha. There was an unusual parade of horses, people, fireworks, rhythmic drumming and singing through the night and over the next two days on the seafront. Without no trouble at all. I think the festival was called “The giver of sight”, presumably meaning spiritual (religious) enlightenment, although it seemed for most people to be an excuse to have fun and party. The people seemed to all be related, and know and respect each other. They are money poor, but seem content with the basic life they have, and their impact on the local natural environment is minimal in comparison to the nearby fazendas (cattle ranches) I had recently visited with vast areas of open land and buffalo everywhere.

Eventually, though, I had to get moving again – so from the last point of walking in Soure, I walked with another guide (Edson Lima) from the fishing community. He owned a motorbike, and understandably didn’t want to walk all the way to Monsars and then Cachoeira Do Arari, so he accompanied me along the hot empty dusty roads on his bike as I walked, so that way he could return home quickly and also carry fresh water for me to drink. After two long days of walking and me swimming across two big rivers, (the first river apparently contained – I was informed after swimming, venomous sea snakes and razor-sharp rocks) we arrived at Cachoeira Do Arari.

On the second river crossing, I ended up downstream of my planned exit point, and had to wade waist deep and bare foot through mud and mangrove forest pulling myself out of the mud with anything I could grab hold of. Edson filmed me exiting the forest about 20 minutes later, and I looked like I’d been at the Glastonbury music festival for a long weekend. Unfortunately my guide didn’t notice that the SD card on the video camera was already full, so no footage of me doing a Bear Grylls survival impression was recorded. I guess I was lucky I didn’t tread on any of the venomous barbed flatfish buried in the mangrove mud (the guide used the local ferry service of course.) Anyway, for those worrying about me, from now on I plan to hire a boat escort at each large river crossing.

When we arrived at Cachoeira Do Arari my plan was to walk to Muana the next day, but stories about armed robberies were told to me about the route I was planning, and everyone swore I would not be safe especially if I walked alone. I offered my guide double money to escort me on his bike, but he was concerned for his own safety and worried about his bike being taken. On his advice I decided to take a 7-hour boat journey back to Ponta De Pedras and re-plan my route from there. This has set me back by a good few days. It was a hard decision to make, but there was another route I could take nearer to the coast, be it longer and more expensive.

I plan to return to Soure by boat on 30th Dec to collect spares kit, and see in the new year at a big beach party I’ve been invited to. Looking forward to it. Next blog post then, if I have access to WiFi.

Merry Christmas to all who read this.

 

 

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Horses parade and race along the beach as part of the festival

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Having dinner with some of he locals at the  Pesquerio community

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The Festa at the Pesqueiro fishing community

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This goat’s mother couldn’t give milk, so a family adopted it and fed it

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Heading for Monsaras under the baking hot tropical sun

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First big river crossing, my backpack in tow acts as a floatation aid if I need to rest

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Pan and zoom map to see more detail


2 comments on ‘Buffalo, a fiesta and a walk’:

  1. jeff

    happy new year pete, the website is great, hope you enjoy your adventure out there!

    Reply

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