The Emerald City

After leaving Tefe (the city where the famous naturalist Henry Walter Bates based himself for several years) and following an exhausting 7.5K swim across Lago Tefé, my current guide Everaldo and I set off for the long slog to Juruá. Armed with Everaldo’s vast knowledge of the rainforest and my own very modest experience, we … Read more »


Scrambled heads in Santarém

I’m currently in the large jungle city of Santarém. Antonio, my recent guide, returns home today to Almeirim. His young wife is expecting the imminent arrival of their second child. It was a good experience walking with him, he was keen to learn some English and I picked up a few more Portuguese words. He … Read more »


Snakes and ladders

Snakes and ladders was a board game I loved playing when I was a kid, but I never dreamed I would one day be playing it for real in the Amazon rainforest in South America. Well, at times that’s what it feels like – I make good progress in the direction I want to go, … Read more »


Caxiuanã National Forest

I’m trying my best to minimise the risks to myself and my guide. I’m making decisions every day to calculate the best route, at the same time considering the risks and escape options should anything go wrong. But a times, we just have to rely on good luck or God! to make any progress. My … Read more »


The poor tread lightest

Header photo: Lorimar & daughter:  Piria Para Brazil   I still find it very difficult to sit down and write, having spent all of my working life on my feet and never worked in an office environment. I constantly feel the urge to get out and about and do something physically constructive, even if it’s … Read more »